
Welcome to Ghana.
No matter how long your visa, when you reach ghana you'll be stamped in for a max of 60 days.
Approaching the end of this period you have two possible routes to follow. The first is through the Ghana Immigration Service: you leave them your passport, the money and hope that you'll get it back in two weeks with the right stamp on.
Stories you hear tell you that none of these will necessarily happen: it can take a lot longer, and you might end up getting something completely different from what you asked for.
The second route goes east of Accra along the coast until the Aflao land border. Cross into Togo, and when crossing back you'll be allowed to stay for another 60 days.
As the title of this post may have suggested, we followed the second route and spent the weekend in Lomè, capital of Togo.
The border is exactly as wild as you expect a land border to be in Africa, and perhaps a little kore than I expected. As a piece of advice: if anyone offers you help in anything: REFUSE! it's much easier to do it yourself and you'll avoid having to pay tons of dodgy officers.
Now I am making it sound worse than it was, I only left about 3 dollars to that kind of people. However, as I realized a few hours after crossing the border, the folk that exchanged currencies made magically vanish 30 dollars from my hand. No big deal, there is always a first time.
Togo is cool. Quite diffrent from Ghana in many ways. From the first step in, it is clear that it is a smaller and poorer country.
Lomè is more chilled than Accra. According to the guide it could once claim to be the Paris of Africa. Not too sure about that, but I have a few more african capitals to see before I can judge.
Unlike Accra however it's colonial past is quite evident. Streets are better designed, no open sewers, nice sidewalks, and every so often you bump into beautiful colonial buildings in a crumbling state. One of the main Boulevards runs parallel to the beach, making the ocean much more noticeable then in Accra, which feels more landlocked.
Motorcycles are all over the place, and most of them are used as taxis, this too is quite different from Accra where there are very few motorcycles and the most popular mean of transport is the "tro tro", a beaten up minibus.
Food is extremely good and cheap, mixing french and african dishes. Croissants and baguettes can be found all over the place. We didn't get much chance of exploring the nightlife, but on the streets there is quite a number of jazz bars. Shame we only saw them at 9 in the morning when looking for breakfast.
All in all, a very pleasant stay. I want to go back and see more, this time possibly learning some french before.





